FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Cool Food, Hot Kitchen

During the dog days of summer spending all day in a hot kitchen is often the last thing on a person's mind, even those who cook for a living. It is the professional cooks though -- particularly line cooks -- who spend a good portion of their days in the kitchen, no matter what the temperature. Thus, in these hottest days of summer I dedicate this week's column to all the line cooks who endure the heat.

Though the heat is hard to describe unless you've actually experienced it, try, if you will, to imagine it. The kitchen of a small trendy and busy restaurant is often no larger than the average-sized living room in someone's residence, and these kitchens are stuffed full of all sorts of heat producing equipment: various stoves and ovens, grills, dishwashers, boiling pots, etc. Upon entering the kitchen the heat is at first all encompassing, it surrounds you and permeates your every pore; it's as if you had just stepped into a pool of warm water. For short periods of time it's ok, but to stand in the heat for long hours and rush around during peak periods takes stamina, which, incidentally, is an attribute needed in order to be a valuable line cook. And cruelly, as the heat of the dinner hour intensifies, so too must the line cooks concentration. In order to endure one must surrender. Line cooks also have to dress accordingly: double breasted heavy cotton coats, apron and toque. While it may seem odd to bundle up in these temperatures, the cook's uniform was actually designed insulate him/her from the direct heat of the equipment. These small heated rooms are where line cooks spend a good portion of his/her days, and it's also where they create -- plate by plate. Some cooks do it for their weekly salary, but most do it out of desire.

Celebrity chefs often have a chance to visit the air-conditioned dining room, but the line cook cooks. Those who think that the chef actually cooks every plate that leaves the kitchen are fooling themselves; they are often far too busy with administrative work and other tasks. I, personally, have always abided by the old saying: a chef is only as good as his/her cooks. This is not to imply that chefs don't work the line (the best ones most certainly do), they have simply earned more options. What's truly great about the hospitality industry, though, is that it draws people of all ages and from all walks of life, and anyone can make something of themselves in the kitchen. With more culinary schools opening than ever before, it is still possible to enter this business with little or no experience and eventually work your way to the top (idyllically American some might say).

Recently, while on holiday in New York City, I stopped in a small café in Soho; the temperature outside was hovering somewhere around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The only table available in the small restaurant was very near the kitchen. Sitting in the air-conditioned dining room I would catch glimpses of the cooks in the kitchen every time a server kicked open the door, his arms laden with dishes. Looking like a prized boxer, one of the cooks had a wet towel draped over his neck in an effort to alleviate some of the heat. The food was delicious, and I'm sure not many in the dining room were aware of what it took to get their (and everyone's) food to the table. This reminded me of what a rare and dedicated person it takes to produce plate after plate of quality food in those conditions. Though removed from the line for some time now, I will never forget the heat. And so, with the summer upon us, I think of the line cooks.

Recipes Guaranteed Not To Heat Up Your Kitchen

Tabouleh (Bulgur Wheat, Parsley, and Mint Salad) Yield: 4-6 servings

3/4 cup bulgur wheat 2 cups warm water 2 cups chopped parsley 3/4 cup chopped mint 1/2 cup sliced green onions 1/4 cup olive oil 3 tablespoon lemon juice 2 diced tomatoes 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon pepper