FOOD FOR THOUGHT: The Not So Humble Pie

A definition of "pie" in Webster's dictionary states that it is merely "meat, fruit, etc. baked in crust." While this may sound simple, and it most certainly is, food that is encased between layers of flaky crust is food that is taken to a higher level. Of course there are various types of foods that fall into this category, the most obvious being dessert pies such as apple or pumpkin, but there are also savory pies made of meat, fish and vegetables.

Besides the pie's filling what really makes them special is their crust. This is also the area of pie baking that often causes the most fear, debate, and above all, pride. The truth of the matter is making piecrust is about as basic as things can get; it's simply a mixture of flour, fat and water. The tricky part, though, is how these few basic ingredients are combined.

They key in making delicate piecrust is to not overwork the dough. In comparison to other baked goods, such as cakes or breads where the ingredients are emulsified into one homogenous mass, it's crucial that the fat and flour remain somewhat separate in piecrust. Pieces of fat are often still visible within raw dough, this layered effect is what creates its characteristic flakiness.

Interestingly, like many foods of antiquity, the crust on pies was first added with a function in mind; pies were born out of necessity, as a sort of utilitarian food -- they were originally a vehicle in which to use up scraps of meat, innards, or remnants of previous meals. In fact, according to modern etymology, the English word "pie" is based on the bird "magpie," making reference to the method in which the birds prepare their nests -- using a large variety of collected objects as a base or filling. And humble pie, which was originally known as "umble pie," takes its name from the Old English word "umble," meaning, believe-it-or-not, deer's innards. Apparently it was customary to feed this to servants while the lord of the manner ate the actual venison. Eventually, because people thought that it was being pronounced with a silent "h," it became known as humble pie.

As one can see pies are quite different today; what once might have been thought of as an inferior food or merely leftovers baked in a crust has gone through an incarnation. Presently all sorts of savory pies can be found on the trendiest restaurant menus across the country, and using such eclectic ingredients as sundried tomatoes, crawfish, portabello mushrooms, and even risotto -- these seem to suggest anything but humbleness. And what was once simply substance to stave off hunger can be a complete and well-rounded meal in a crust, for they often contain protein, vegetables and starch, not to mention tasty sauce. In summation, and making reference to the English rock group "Humble Pie" that was popular in the 70's ... pie may be just what the doctor ordered.

Portabello Mushroom-Goat Cheese Pie

Yield: 8 servings

2 pounds portabello mushrooms

1 small onion

2 cloves garlic

1 cup vegetable stock

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill

1 tablespoon fresh chopped basil

8 ounces goats cheese

3 large eggs

1 recipe double-crust pie pastry

1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon milk

Wash, dry and dice the mushrooms; peel and quarter the onion, peel the garlic. In batches, mince the mushrooms, onion and garlic in a food processor to form a fine paste. Combine the mushroom paste, vegetable stock, salt and pepper in a medium non-stick saucepot, and place the pot over medium-high heat. Cook the mushrooms until almost all of the liquid has evaporated and they have reduced by have in volume. Take great care to stir the mushrooms often to avoid scorching. Remove the pot from the heat and add the dill basil and goats cheese; stir until the goat's cheese is thoroughly melted. Remove the seasoned mushroom mixture to a medium bowl and cool to room temperature. Once it is cooled stir in the eggs.