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The New Knitting: This Is Not Your Grandma's Arts & Crafts

By Anneli Rufus, AlterNet. Posted July 28, 2008.


To casual observers it may look like adults making toys and keeping them, but embroidery hoops and homemade clothes are officially cool.
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You don't have to handcraft your next checkbook cover out of an old plastic tennis racket sheath that you plucked from a neighbor's garbage bin, cut up and sewed. You don't have to adorn your bathroom curtain with repetitive designs (sea horses, say, or tugboats) using a chiseled half-potato and colorfast fabric paint. You could use the free checkbook cover the bank gave you and buy ready-made curtains. Nor must you snip the sleeves off that knitted top and replace them -- get out the matching thread --with floaty scarves. But hey.

The DIY movement wants you to make stuff. The DIY movement is huge, and sometimes it's charming and sometimes it's annoying and it is an anti-mass-production insurrection, a cuddly-soft revolt whose arsenal is crochet hooks, needles and glue guns. It is active in an all-too-passive age. It is a revolution against dehumanization in a programmed, processed world, and Doing It Yourself declares the self. It is an anti-retail uprising whose strategy is Make, don't buy -- at least not new, never full-price. It is one more way to recycle, restore, rescue and renew -- and every stenciled paper bag transformed into gift wrap, every lipstick tube transformed into a tampon case, cleans up the Earth while telling major industries: Fuck you.

A flood of books, many of them spawned by blogs, takes up that chorus. In Anticraft: Knitting, Beading and Stitching for the Slightly Sinister (North Light, 2007), Rene Rigdon and Zabet Stewart declare themselves "sick of homogenized culture, and these realizations have left holes in our hearts. We create to fill those holes, to be able to sleep at night knowing we've done something, even a small something, to confront the manufactured culture that is currently being churned out." In Lotta Prints: How to Print with Anything, from Potatoes to Linoleum (Chronicle, 2008), Lotta Jansdotter suggests chiseled turnips and carrots as well. In Creepy Cute Crochet (Quirk, 2008), Christen Haden promises: "You can teach yourself to crochet, often in as little as one day (it's true!)." In Alternation (North Light, 2007), Shannon Okey and Alexandra Underhill hail "enviro-chic." In Subversive Seamster (Taunton, 2007), Melissa Rannels and Hope Meng declare: "We derive the most fashionable satisfaction from knowing that we are reusing and recycling what already exists in this material world -- and looking damn good doing it!"

You already know this, or you will: Crafting is back.

Not as it was when pioneers made dolls from clothespins -- when your average person even knew what clothespins were. But that's the point. This is not crafting by necessity. This is not crafting to kill time. This is crafting to claim identity, to save the world from soulless junk. To casual observers it looks like adults making toys and keeping them. But this is a resurgence with a vengeance.

By the start of this decade, the counterculture had reached a near-endgame. Just about every aesthetic and activity that could have been informed by punk already was. We might not have been aware of this as such, and still we might not credit it, but punk spawned so much of the angryuglybeautiful, the violent getpisseddestroy that we take for granted now. And DIY: Punk was DIY music, after all. Played in DIY costumes at DIY venues, with DIY announcements taped to poles. But by this decade, punk was one-plus generation back. What hadn't yet been long-since punkified? What had stayed so uncool so long as to still be untouched?

Did someone say "embroidery hoop"?

I craft too. Check out these bottle-cap-framed miniature colored-pencil portraits, this coquillage matchbox.

These new crafting books -- and dozens more, such as Khris Cochran's The DIY Bride and Kristen Rask's Plush You -- turn the toothpick-whittling our ancestors did beside the bonfire into something now performed in dorm rooms under Che posters. And just as postmodern crafters refashion polyester golf trousers into floofy plaid faux-feather boas, they are also deeply invested in refashioning the public image of crafting itself. It is imperative that they distance themselves from past crafters, who were not cool: from the toothpick-whittlers and the summer-camp lanyard-plaiters to the late-20th-century toilet-roll-cover knitters and tie-dyers. This is not your grandmother's crafting, they say -- literally. The Anticraft authors proclaim craft "de-grannified." Plush You! scorns a "stinky, grumpy old grandfather." Subversive Seamster's authors urge readers to raid "grandma's wardrobe" and make sexy corsets out of "old man pants." It's as if they feel compelled to keep reminding us that they're young.


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Anneli Rufus is the author of several books, including "Party of One: The Loners' Manifesto."

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20 Ways to Reduce the BS in Your Life
Posted by: terradea42 on Jul 28, 2008 4:05 AM   
Current rating: 3    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
No one – not the government, not corporations, not the churches and especially not the media – are going to protect you or act in your best interest. Here are “20 Easy Tips” to help you reduce bullshit in your life and have fun doing it.

1. Don’t be an employee; if you must, don’t be a full-time employee; if you must, don’t work for an evil (and they all are) corporation - unless it’s your own.

2. Save the environment and your mental health: take public transportation and try to work from home.

3. Buy a bicycle and use it.

4. Openly mock people who drive SUVs or Minivans.

5. Never answer the phone unless you know who’s calling; make the caller leave a message. This gives you a record of the call. If the caller doesn’t leave a message, it wasn’t important.

6. Don’t “blow” if you are stopped for a DUI. Never. It can only be used against you; it will NEVER be used to help you. Charges might be dropped if you don’t blow, but you’ll be found guilty for sure if you do (rare exceptions for diabetics or drivers with acid reflux).

7. If cops knock on your door, DON’T OPEN IT unless you called them. Ever. If you accidentally open it, don’t let them in unless they have a warrant. Tell your roommates.

8. Don’t go shopping for pleasure. But if you must go shopping, do it at a thrift store. Used items have character.

9. Don’t buy anything that costs over $1000 dollars unless it is a surgical procedure or an education. Material goods are temporary and may end up owning you instead of the other way around. Rent or borrow if you really need something.

10. Don’t wear clothing with visible logos or names; When you do, you become a living billboard slut - unless you’re paid to advertise the crap.

11. Ignore trends in fashion, toys and television. If you really like something trendy, try to buy it used. After you do, modify it in some way and make it your own.

12. Tell all collection agencies and debt collectors to fuck off. They won’t help you. They will only take your money and you’ll still have bad credit because you were turned over to them in the first place. And NEVER believe a word they say.

13. If you follow #9 you won’t need to worry about a bad credit rating. Recognize your credit score for what it is: a control mechanism implemented by corporations.

14. Avoid fundamentalists of any religion, and NEVER, under any circumstances, insult them to their face. They are liable to get "Old Testament" on your ass.

15. Ignore stupid traditions like saying “God Bless You” to sneezers. Don’t thank anyone who says it to you. If someone complains, ask them why they don’t have a polite phrase for coughs, burps or farts.

16. Remember, most holidays are inventions of Hallmark. They are meaningless and silly. Think about it…New Years Day is a completely arbitrary date; it has no real meaning.

17. If zealots kidnap you and ask you if you believe in [fill in the blank], ALWAYS tell them what they want to hear. Taking a moral or philosophical stand is never worth dying for, especially if it’s wasted on lunatics. If they kill you anyway, at least you died trying to live.

18. Today, if a person publicly proclaims to be a Christian, hear it as "achristian."

19. Don’t be embarrassed to ask or demand LOUDLY that parents control their unruly children in public places. They may not listen, but you’ll feel better.

20. Stop being afraid. Adopt the mantra: “It’s better to be free than safe,” especially in matters of speech, sex and motorcycle helmets.

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» #15 Sneezers, #6, #16, #19 & #20 Posted by: war_on_tara
» Loved it! Posted by: Moira61
This is not so new
Posted by: charlief on Jul 28, 2008 4:13 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
The resurgence of crafts is hardly new - this author is 'very late to the table on this one' as my wife commented. There are magazines out there and websites galore that have so far been largely below the radar - and you'll not find too many McCain supporters amongst them either.

Sites such as Designing Vashti, Craftzine, Subway Hooker.com, Ravelry.com, magazines like Craft: and ReadyMade and craft fairs such as the Renegade Craft Fairs held all over the country are the face of the new crafters. If you're into any kind of DIY, recycling or reusing crafts, these are the place to start.

There's a whole new world out there. And it's been there for some years.

[« Reply to this comment] [Post a new comment »] [Rate this comment: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5]

» RE: This is not so new Posted by: drmimi94954
» RE: This is not so new Posted by: AntBee
» She didn't say it was "new" Posted by: Smackback
» The title says "new" Posted by: Beck
This IS your granny's craft!
Posted by: girlnumbertwenty on Jul 28, 2008 4:30 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
No, no, no. The hipsters out there who keep saying "this isn't your grandmother's craft" are trying to sell you something ;-) Regina, who blogs at Monster Crochet, had a great essay back in 2005 already on this ridiculous phrase (it made the rounds, and quickly, in the craft blog world) and on how all of this is really about being proud of your inner Granny:

http://monstercrochet.blogspot.com/2005
/11/not-your-grandmothers-crochet.html

I make things as well, and both my Grandmothers have been an invaluable source of information, and I'm lucky to have them. Will I do things exactly the same as them? nope, but it would be the height of vanity to think that it hadn't been done before.

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» Grandma and Older Friends Thank You Posted by: naomi dagen bloom
Forward to the Past
Posted by: phshafe on Jul 28, 2008 4:58 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
As the economics of shipping raw material to the east Asian slave labor factories to be made into clothes erode, we will be back to where things were when the boomers were kids. If you want nice/new clothes, you make them. One of America's most underrecognized and underutilized resources are the women who work in (or who are associated with) fabric stores, who know, down to the nubs, how to make clothes turn out right. The smarter folks are starting to tap into this resource right about now, given the speed at which we are headed into a post-oil era that forces us to make other arrangements for many things including what we wear.

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Five Years Ago
Posted by: Erik1968 on Jul 28, 2008 5:26 AM   
Current rating: 3    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
This was cool five years ago. It isn't anymore. Sorry.

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did you say knitting?
Posted by: Evelyn on Jul 28, 2008 6:07 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
If you're gonna title a piece "The New Knitting" at least mention knitting in it! You have to sign up to enter, but Ravelry.com has 157,255 registered users, mostly knitters, some crocheters. There's a group of Knitters for Obama. It's a young demographic, but the knitting is not punk, it's mostly traditional and very passionate.

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» RE: did you say knitting? Posted by: drmimi94954
Gotta draw the line somewhere between local and global.
Posted by: maxpayne on Jul 28, 2008 7:05 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Organic clothing isn't impossible to find out there and there are plenty of sites on the net that'll sell well. Sure, it may have a different feel but it'll last longer and you can feel proud that it ain't all petro-chemicals. Besides, as crude oil prices keep going up, all those polyesters, conventional cottons, nylons, spandexes, etc ... will only get more costly. Come to think of it, sure we men and women may not look as sexy with organic clothing because it ain't as elastic and "perfect" looking at first site but at least we all may actually build some decent respect and admiration for one another and return to moderate expectations for a change. You can never be too local or too global because somewhere you gotta draw the line. Besides, remember FAIR TRADE? It's not the same as those "free" trade scams.

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Grandma Knits Condom Amulets
Posted by: naomi dagen bloom on Jul 28, 2008 8:18 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Creative Fiber artists have used/are using their work to make political statements for a very long time. Think Civil War quilts, Temperance quilts.

KnitaCondomAmulet.com has 7 patterns by 5 knitters, 80 members at its Ravelry site, was an ongoing interactive activity at last year's show, Radical Knitting at Museum of Art & Design, NYC.

This grandmother began knitting Condom Amulets three years ago on learning about the crisis in HIV among women over 50. Now it's an idea used for Safe Sex education in Girl Scout troops, high schools.

As earlier commenters note, this is a very long post from a very narrow perspective. Perhaps the people who are actually doing something are too busy with their craft to find time to make pompous and devisive statements connected with someone's recent book.

Many of us work to bring the world together and fiber is our medium.

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Knitting for Psychos
Posted by: fanny666 on Jul 28, 2008 8:19 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Knitting for Psychos

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"she didn't say it was new"???
Posted by: grey6666 on Jul 28, 2008 12:55 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
The title "The New Knitting..." kind of made us think something was new, but aside from that, knitting is still evolving as a craft and as a social function. I imagine that it is also a way for (as in my family) grandmas to use a craft as a way to talk to their grandchildren and as a friend of mine says "solve the problems of the world" in a dynamic setting in which brainstorming is encouraged ( the local knitting circle).

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Been Doing it for Years
Posted by: DesignGirl on Jul 28, 2008 3:07 PM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I have been watching this for a while. I have been a textile artisan for years, doing outdoor art festivals and now have a gallery. I find so many new to the crafts people here in cyber world and they seem the think they invented all the designs. It is great that they are finding how great it is to create, but we have been doing this for years. The new media for connecting to others just makes it easier to market and find like minds. But as was said before, there is a tradition and the ones who came before should be appreciated as well.
http://theredthreadstudio.com
http://armstrongindustry.typepad.com

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» RE: Been Doing it for Years Posted by: clamhod
Buy thrift shop sweaters for the yarn
Posted by: Beck on Jul 28, 2008 4:05 PM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Look for thrift shop sweaters that are knitted in separate pieces. Look at the insides of the seams; if they're an overlocked or serged seam, the sweater piece was cut from a large piece of knitted fabric and each row of stitches will be a separate piece of yarn. You'll be able to tell the difference if you compare a few sweaters.

If the sweater is machine made, the seams will be chain-stitched. Usually by carefully cutting one seam stitch at the top of a seam, you'll be able to pull out the whole seam. Then cut loose some stitches at the top of the piece and start ravelling.

I used to block the yarn by ravelling the piece and winding it on a yarn winder, then steaming out the kinks. Then I just wound it into a ball. Now I don't even do that. Hold the sweater sleeve or whatever it is under your foot and yank off a few rows of stitches, then knit them up. this feels pleasantly subversive.

Good yarn is ridiculously expensive now. But you can easily find nice wool and even cashmere sweaters used for a couple of bucks.

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New?
Posted by: wisewebwoman on Jul 28, 2008 7:17 PM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I've been a knitter since I was 6 and yeah, I'm a Granny now. This article is very poorly written and not in the least new. And I have a hard time with youngsters who condemn the old ways and try and re-invent something that doesn't need it. Knitting has always been on the cutting edge. Anyone try the new sea silks? Soya wool? Anyone try taking a bunch of old handknits from Goodwill and making a gorgeous quilt?
I honestly don't see the point of replicating roadkill in a purl stitch but hey.
And the 'knitting' article was mainly about crochet? Seems to me like the author should check her needles. If she has any.

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Dockside
Posted by: rtmyth on Jul 29, 2008 12:37 PM   
Current rating: 1    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Rudy Valee, in the Broadway show "How to Succeed in Business Without Really Trying",was taken in by his phony knitting protogue

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