FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Bulbous Pungency

Toast two slices of whole wheat or multi-grain bread -- preferably one that has been naturally leavened -- and spread a thick coating of real mayonnaise across the toast. Make a sandwich by layering the mayonnaise-coated bread with slices of raw onion, sharp cheddar cheese and tart apple.

While this may be an unorthodox approach to begin a food column with a recipe, as opposed to ending with one, I felt obliged to list one of my favorites: apple, onion and cheddar sandwich. Besides, eating the above sandwich will make the remaining reading more enjoyable.

Onion lovers -- like garlic lovers -- can be fanatical about their favorite bulb. My friend Angelo, for example, virtually drools at the site of them. This became clear as he chatted with me while unconsciously eating raw onions I had just cut for soup. In fact, his love of onions is so apparent that it has earned him the nickname amongst friends as "onion boy". In this era of processed snack foods, with ingredient lists that contain unpronounceable words and are sometimes paragraphs long, there are far worse foods to be infatuated with.

Though garlic receives more publicity in regards to health benefits than onions, they are obviously closely related; along with chives, leeks and other types of onions (and oddly asparagus), garlic and onions are members of the allium -- or lily -- family. And as with garlic, onions have been used as a folk medicine throughout recorded history. In fact, onions have been employed medicinally for more than 3000 years, but unfortunately their preventive and curative benefits are often considered little more than folklore. As far back as ancient Egypt the slaves were fed large amounts of garlic and onions to remain healthy while constructing the pyramids; the Egyptians used onions as medication for literally thousands of ailments. The esteemed Greek physician, Hippocrates, prescribed onions as a cold cure and also applied them to wounds to alleviate infection. And during the American Civil War Ulysses S. Grant refused to march his troops forward without an ample supply of the humble bulb. There is also one onion "tidbit" that will be of particular interest to many male baby boomers: a 1596 book entitled The Great Herbal claimed that regular applications of onion juice to a bald scalp could possibly grow hair.

Onions do not contain any fat and only have a mere trace of natural sodium; they also carry great nutritional value. Though it's difficult to imagine anyone eating an entire onion, one medium-sized bulb has as much vitamin C as an orange and twice as much as an apple. In fact, in days gone by, because they were more readily available and easier to store than oranges, onions were often brought on long voyages to prevent scurvy -- the infamous Captain Cook mandated that there be an amount of twenty pounds of onions for each crew member aboard his ships.

In order to reap the most healthful benefits of onions they should be consumed raw, but are obviously much more universally appealing and versatile when cooked. Luckily, though, heat and cooking only minimally reduce the potency and health qualities of onions. What's more, cooking and caramelizing the natural sugars in onions will make the pungent and sometimes harsh raw flavor a mere memory. An example of this is onion soup where the onions are caramelized to such an extent that one might believe there has been cane sugar added to the soup. Though it is only natural to brown onions quickly and over high heat, they will be more thoroughly caramelized (brown and sweet) if cooked over low or medium heat for a longer period of time.

There is currently no remedy for the tearing and eye-watering effects of onions, but their vapors will be diminished slightly if the bulbs are chilled prior to preparation. When chopping or slicing onions do so with a sharp stainless knife; chopping them in a food processor or with a dull knife will bruise the onions and can cause a strong or slightly bitter flavor. Generally, onions are available year round but specific varieties have distinct seasons. Purchase onions that feel heavy for their size and have dry, papery skins with no moister or major blemishes. Extremely dry onions or those with soft spots signify age or incorrect storage. Store onions in a cool, dry area with ample ventilation and away from direct sunlight for up to two months. Once an onion is cut the remainder should be securely wrapped, refrigerated and used within a few days.