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Of Crafts and Causes

By Phoebe Connelly, In These Times. Posted February 23, 2006.


The DIY craft movement is back; is it a new form of consumption or a subversive political act?
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Crafts are officially cool again. At many a chain bookstore, ReadyMade magazine's new book, ReadyMade: How to Make (Almost) Everything, isn't tucked away in the "Crafts" section, but stacked four high on the front display table.

Hip, design-savvy and eco-friendly, the book embodies one pole of a flourishing craft movement that draws equal inspiration from politics, art and urban living. It signals the latest incarnation of the craft movement -- which appears every time a new generation discovers the pleasure of handicraft (recall the '60s back-to-the-land, Whole Earth Catalog crowd).

The book joins a crop of new craft titles that draw from the best of Martha Stewart, then add a dash of your dumpster-diving, protest-attending college roommate. ReadyMade magazine, which started publishing in 2001, released its eponymous resource book in December, just in time for the deluge of holiday shoppers simultaneously over-consumed and broke. The magazine's title comes from surrealist Marcel Duchamp, who coined it to refer to the ordinary objects he altered or signed and then called art.

"Learn how to turn everyday objects into spellbinding inventions," the cover blurb invites. "Our simple self-improvement techniques will make you smarter, better looking, and more well-adjusted."

Organized by material (paper, plastic, wood, metal, glass and fabric), each section provides brief history of the substance and an overview of its manufacturing. Then come the projects, rated on a difficulty level from "monkey" to "craftsman" (who "knows that a "stud finder is not a matchmaking service!"), each with its own stylized icon. The "Remake This!" sections showcase a project they tried to make work, but which ended up more complicated than pleasing. Most cloying or endearing -- depending how much the McSweeney's crowd raises your bile -- are the clever non-craft lessons: "How to Make a Film Like Ingmar Bergman," "A Look Back at the Origins of Heavy Metal" and "How to Tell a Good Story."

They are the most ambitious aspect of the book, arguing that the craft ethos applies to one's entire life. They hark back to the Foxfire books (recently reissued by Anchor Books), the pioneering oral history project of the '70s, which had Georgia high school students interview elders in their communities for histories on everything from washing laundry in an iron tub to telling ghost stories. Here though, Grandma's been replaced by Ira Glass.

Still, there is an uneasy relationship between the rhetoric of reuse and refashion and the underlying comfort with consumption. The introduction to the paper section provides dismaying statistics about paper manufacturing, but they're quickly bracketed with cheery reassurances: "The good news is that trees are renewable, and American farms, planting millions of seeds each year now contribute nearly 90 percent of the raw material used to make paper." Phew! For a second there it sounded as if we should put down our crafts and organize around that.

Glossy, modernist ReadyMade sits on the design end of this new craft-resurgence, with inside cover blurbs from celeb aesthetes like Dave Eggers and Todd Oldham. But another strand of the craft movement, one that views itself as overtly political, utilizes DIY (do it yourself) as a means of subverting disposable consumption, and questions the ghettoizing of crafts as women's work. It's grown up in conjunction with postfeminist magazines Bitch, Bust and Venus, and has ties to various activist communities.

Greg Der Ananian's Bazaar Bizarre: Not Your Granny's Crafts! proudly flies its freak flag. Named for the bi-coastal craft fair run by its author, Bazaar Bizarre is a collection of how-to-make-it presentations by the fair's artists, from sock monkeys to mini-shrines made of Altoids boxes. Der Ananian introduces each crafter with a short bio, a mug shot and brief Q&A. Clearly the edgier of the two books, the difficulty level of each craft here is given in number of anarchist symbols -- one to five.

Der Ananian takes on one of the complicated questions of the craft movement, asking each crafter "What is the difference between an 'art' and a 'craft'?" Many of the artists -- Der Ananian's term -- argue that their work is designed to break down this distinction that pits "skills" against "functionality." The best answer, however, belongs to Stacie Dolins: "Art goes on your wall. Art rhymes with fart; craft rhymes with daft."


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Sure it's political !
Posted by: ebliso on Feb 23, 2006 3:36 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
A few years ago, I was fired from a string of crappy jobs (delivering pizza , front desk at a hotel, etc.) ... seemed like shortly after a coworker or boss would ask if I was gay (I've been 'out' since high school , had a rainbow sticker on my car and I don't hide my gayness in any way) I would find myself without a job. I got so fed up , that I decided never to work for anyone else again. I slowly taught myself to sew and started creating stuffed animals. I remember a kid asking me one day why I'd choose to make something as silly as stuffed animals as there was a war looming (the current Iraq War) and the world was such a serious place. I told him that I thought it was the best time to be making things that are silly and soft and make people smile for a little bit. It's not 'march on washington revolutionary' , but it's a small thing that puts some happiness into the world .
Also, I DO think there's more to the diy craft movement than JUST commerce and cuteness. In a world of Wal-marts and mass produced .... everything, handmade crafts are a reminder of another way. In the America of strip malls , McMansions, and 99cent stores , DIY is subversive .
Four years on, and I haven't worked for anyone else .... I still make less now than when I delivered pizza , but I wake up everyday and create something new ; from my mind , through my hands , and into the world . And at the end of the day, I'm happy and I feel good about making the world a little softer place to be .

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» RE: Sure it's political ! Posted by: greymoon
-Your inner price tag-
Posted by: pixiequix on Feb 23, 2006 5:24 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I'm certain there is a much more common denominator here that is not a question of vanity or trendiness. That, thankfully, cannot be negated by a lackluster op-ed piece, as, it carries quite a bit more weight with it. Hmmm...what is another reason some may find it beneficial to do things like sew your own clothes, now with an added bonus of a better percieved social standing? Oh yeah, poverty.

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Ha.
Posted by: bettsoff on Feb 23, 2006 5:55 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
"Learn how to turn everyday objects into spellbinding inventions," the cover blurb invites. "Our simple self-improvement techniques will make you smarter, better looking, and more well-adjusted."

That says it all, really. Fad. Hobby of the would-be idle class. Tripe.

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» doesn't have to be... Posted by: Loopylafae
» RE: doesn't have to be... Posted by: bettsoff
Golly gee wowser
Posted by: jverner on Feb 23, 2006 6:59 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Sounds way too trendy for an old fart like me.

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Interesting but irrelevant to this topic
Posted by: Sojourner on Feb 23, 2006 7:53 AM   
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Opps, will do. You're forgiven.

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personal or political?
Posted by: greymoon on Feb 23, 2006 8:55 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
In the knitting groups to which I belong there is a wide range of class, race, age and even genders. We are networking not only on the level of craft/art/personal expression through handiwork. We exchange ideas, dialogue on social issues and create community, which is something that has been left behind in many areas of modern life. We do not always agree with each other about politics or other issues, but having the dialogue opens up lines of communication and provokes thought. The art and articles we create while so engaged may often be a side benefit, but each of us shares something intimate by sharing the creative process and in so doing, becomes more a part of the community as a whole.

In my experience of the resurgence of crafting, it is both personal and political, often spiritual and occasionally global ( look up "Afghans for Afghans") I would recommend that more people at least try getting involved.

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Sure resembles Lakoff's Strict father "you're on your own buddy" theory
Posted by: NDnative on Feb 23, 2006 9:35 AM   
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And much of the DIY's language is very Orwellian like. As a native North Dakotan, I can't tell you enough how insulting to farmers these bastards are to assume that we're nothing but slaves and god damn them for lying about trees being renewable !

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it is economic, political, and can also be an artform
Posted by: saywhat? on Feb 23, 2006 12:31 PM   
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as an artisan i am very comfortable with craft work ..... it sure can be wasteful....one of my final winces - working professionally as a carpenter, was at a really lavious 'ralph lauren' store that looked like a fancy law office, all young mahogany, 12 step crown, 11' - french doors, etc, and a designer decided to plow a 16 penny nail through a panel to hang a really tacky picture....

as the next job was self-employment, frugality was a necessity...., buying something like a winter coat proved frustrating as all were flimsy, made in slave wage lands, expensive, and lacking any kind of real style...so sewing, knitting , crocheting, carpentry, cabinet making, and other tradeskills, are helpful skills to have...

it may only be a trend among some, but it can be art for those who find interest in it....

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Just maybe
Posted by: MEL810 on Feb 23, 2006 3:28 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
some people do crafts not because it's trendy or political or whatever but simply because they enjoy it? Or they have a talent they want to use? Geese louise, pcness (or not) is being thrown onto crafters now. I give up!

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Well, for me knitting IS a subversive act.
Posted by: Lizmv on Feb 23, 2006 4:29 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
To make one's own garments these days is a very political act, no matter what economic group you belong to. Clothing is a basic human nessessity but the art of making clothiing has been so devalued that those women and children who make our clothing are little more than slaves. For me, knitting a pair of socks reminds me of that. I also knit as a spiritual practice. I buy my wool from a local sheep farm, so you could say I have a personal relationship with the seep who produced the wool and the farmers who who love thier sheep. Knitting socks for a family mamber or a friend is an act of intimacy and love. As I knit, i magically weave in my thoughts of that person and for those I have a difficult relationship with, I try to weave in healing for that relationship. Finally knitting gives me something productive to do during long drawn out political action meetings!

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I Made This!
Posted by: dragondreams on Feb 23, 2006 5:14 PM   
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Whatever happened to the simple pride in having made something yourself? From home-made meals to hand-knit socks to hand-turned banisters, craftspeople and artists have always had a desire to create.

A personalized gift that someone put the time and effort into creating themselves has always meant more to me than something someone just dropped by a chain store to buy at the last second. I don't treasure the striped acrylic scarf I bought at the store because it was cold....I treasure the funky primitive-look scarf that I knit from yarn that I spun myself using a hand spindle. Ask any doting mother, and they treasure the handmade cards from their children far more than the commercially bought ones.

The ready-made industry has created a lot of look-alike boring items...clothing in particular. Seams fall apart more often than when I grew up, and the choice of styles is severely limited to whatever color/fashion choice are in vogue that particular season. With the clothing items that I knit and sew I get *exactly* what I want, from the fabric to the pattern clear down to a perfect fit and seams that don't fall apart on the second wash.

Why should I be forced to buy an ill-fitting item in disgusting colors when I'm perfectly capable of learning to make things myself? With the plethora of DIY skills I've picked up by now I'm the LAST person you want to kick off the island....I can keep you fed, sheltered, clothed and entertained with very little effort!

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» RE: I Made This! Posted by: ConnecttheDots
A Deeper Motivation
Posted by: ConnecttheDots on Feb 23, 2006 6:00 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Conspicuously missing from the article is any overt reference to recycling. What better way to subvert the corporate economic paradigm than to convert previously discarded articles into perfectly usable products? Satisfaction is half the reward; a healthier planet is the other half.

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Fact checking is a good thing
Posted by: softgraffiti on Feb 23, 2006 10:31 PM   
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Bitch, Bust, and Venus are not 'postfeminist' magazines. In fact, Bitch's slogan is "feminist response to pop-culture". The latest issue has this to say about postfeminism:

"The truth is, painting ours as a postfeminist world gets everyone in power off the hook; it pretends that everything is peachy and suggest that if, for you, it isn't, then the problem lies with you and your personal choices, not with any larger system of, oh, let's say patriarchy or capitalism or racism or classism."

Furthermore, Bust and Venus, while not declaring feminism in their masthead. give ample attention to feminist issues and declare them as such.

It's detrimental enough to have this notion of postfeminism floating about, but pegging unabashedly feminst magazines as postfeminist is a gross oversight.

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