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Pesticides in Pet Products: Why Your Dog or Cat May Be at Risk

By M.B. Pell and Jillian Olsen, The Center for Public Integrity. Posted February 2, 2009.


A growing number of pets are dying from flea and tick treatments because of a dangerous pesticide.

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Last June Diane Bromenschenkel applied a flea-and-tick product to her English pointer, Wings, so the dog wouldn't get ticks while hunting pheasant in the tall grasslands of western Idaho. Wings, a healthy five-year-old with a sleek white coat and a chocolate brown mask, enjoyed long walks in the woods, bacon treats, and burying things in the yard. But three months after the pesticide was applied, the animal was dead.

It was just hours following the use of the product that Bromenschenkel knew something was wrong. She noticed her dog walking around in a daze. Wings was unresponsive. On the advice of her veterinarian, Bromenschenkel tried to wash off the treatment —Bio Spot Spot On Flea and Tick Control for Dogs -- but the next day Wings was still suffering.

The dog stopped eating and drinking despite the application of appetite increasers, said Patricia Pence, the veterinarian and owner of South Wind Veterinary Hospital in Nampa, Idaho, where Wings was treated. "The anorexia is a direct result of the Bio Spot," Pence said. She believes the insecticide in Bio Spot damaged the portion of Wings' brain responsible for hunger and thirst. So she inserted a feeding tube into the dog's neck and for the next three months Bromenschenkel and Wings were in and out of the veterinary hospital.

During this period, Bromenschenkel woke up every two hours at night to give Wings an injection of liquid nutrient through the neck. She spent thousands of dollars on vet bills. Despite the best efforts of Bromenschenkel and Pence, however, the damage was done. In September, Wings' kidneys failed and Bromenschenkel made the difficult decision to put her dog to sleep. In days Wings had gone from a healthy dog, running alongside horses in the Owyhee Mountains, to an emaciated wreck, chasing phantom birds in the kitchen. "What's so terrible about it is that if you had known, you would never have used it," said Bromenschenkel of the Bio Spot.

The Debate Over Pyrethroids

imageWings died three months after being treated with Bio Spot flea and tick drops; her vet thinks the product damaged the part of Wings' brain responsible for hunger and thirst. Credit: Diane Bromenschenkel. Bio Spot contains a 45 percent solution of the active ingredient permethrin, a synthetic neurotoxin belonging to the pyrethroid family of chemicals. Bio Spot is one of several over-the-counter spot on (meaning squeezed on to a particular spot) anti-flea-and-tick products that consumers apply to cats and dogs between the shoulder blades and sometimes at the base of the tail. The animal's natural oils spread the insecticide over its body, making its skin and fur inhospitable to parasites. These pyrethroid-based flea and tick treatments -- from Hartz, Sergeant's, Farnam, and Bayer -- are approved for sale by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and they are readily available at grocery stores, specialty pet retailers, and hardware stores. But they are also linked to thousands of reported pet poisonings, and they have stirred the ire of pet owners, the concern of veterinarians, and the attention of regulatory agencies.

Manufacturers and distributors of over-the-counter spot on treatments say the products are generally safe and effective when used properly, but they concede there are cats and dogs that either have a preexisting condition or an acute sensitivity to these treatments that leads to an illness.

The industry position, however, may dismiss safety concerns too casually. At least 1,600 pet deaths related to spot on treatments with pyrethroids were reported to the EPA over the last five years, according to an analysis of EPA pesticide incident exposure data by the Center for Public Integrity. That is about double the number of reported fatalities tied to similar treatments without pyrethroids, such as Frontline and Advantage -- although these products also have critics.

Pyrethroid spot ons also account for more than half of "major" pesticide pet reactions reported to EPA over the last five years -- that is, those incidents involving serious medical reactions such as brain damage, heart attacks, and violent seizures. In contrast, non-pyrethroid spot on treatments accounted for only about 6 percent of all major incidents.

In the last five years, the EPA received a total of more than 25,000 reports of pet pesticide reactions of every sort -- fatal, major, moderate, and minor -- to over-the-counter pyrethroid spot on products. This compares to 10,500 reports of all pet incidents related to shampoos, powders, sprays, collars, dips, mousses, lotions, and towels. This analysis does not take into account how much of each product was used over the last five years as the EPA does not have that information.

The EPA cautions that it does not confirm the authenticity of these reports and most of the claims come from consumers and not trained toxicologists. The EPA uses the database to observe broad trends and to identify significant spikes in incidents for specific products and chemicals.


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one alternative
Posted by: socialpsych on Feb 2, 2009 2:25 AM   
Current rating: 4    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Late last summer I stopped using Frontline on my dogs and started using Sergeant's Sentry Natural Defense, which is made from essential oils of herbs and spices. It makes my dogs smell like cloves, which takes some getting used to, but I found dead ticks on them and it seemed to keep off fleas, too. It costs one-third as much as Frontline.

Has anyone else tried Natural Defense? Does it work for your pets?

[« Reply to this comment] [Post a new comment »] [Rate this comment: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5]

» RE: one alternative Posted by: clvngodess
» RE: one alternative Posted by: praedor
» RE: Sargent's Nature alternatives Posted by: login@bugmenot.com
» RE: one alternative Posted by: MindyB
It's not rocket science
Posted by: dobbie606 on Feb 2, 2009 2:48 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
-this toxicity has been known for decades
-give your pets garlic capsules,vitamin c,freshly-ground flaxseed,kelp powder&brewer's yeast. Yes,all this stuff works:our hound never had a flea nor worms during his 18year outdoor life.
This applies to humans as well:purify the blood,strengthen the immune system& the parasites won't get a toehold.Simple.

[« Reply to this comment] [Post a new comment »] [Rate this comment: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5]

» Stop the brewer's yeast Posted by: 2dogarage
» RE: Go Raw Posted by: login@bugmenot.com
» Thanks for the raw confirmation Posted by: 2dogarage
» RE: It's not rocket science Posted by: QuestionAuthority
» RE: It is rocket science for many pet owners Posted by: login@bugmenot.com
» RE: It's not rocket science Posted by: MindyB
balance is the key
Posted by: SekhmetsatRa on Feb 2, 2009 4:03 AM   
Current rating: 3    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
as someone who has used natural remedies for fleas and ticks for a very long time, it takes a lot of work to keep an animal flea-free. i went the herbal way after my cat had a severe reaction to frontline, losing all her fur and having open, weeping sores where it had been applied. herbal remedies have to be applied EVERY DAY. you can maybe stretch it out every other day, but to be completely bug-free, EVERY DAY.

i don't trust a lot of the chemical remedies, but they are a lot easier than oiling your dogs and cats every day, putting garlic in their food, etc. especially, if you have a picky eater.

i feel bad for the woman, but most responsible owners do research before giving anything to their pets, and if she HAD done hers, she would've known otc flea meds are dangerous.

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» Garlic bad for pets Posted by: 2dogarage
» RE: balance is the key Posted by: MindyB
Be careful with garlic!
Posted by: phatkhat on Feb 2, 2009 4:35 AM   
Current rating: 1    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Garlic can cause kidney failure in pets. If you are giving them enough to keep fleas off, it could harm them. Some pet foods contain tiny amounts of garlic as flavoring, but more than that can be lethal.

Also, some "natural herbal" repellents may contain pennyroyal oil. This was used in flea treatments maybe thirty years ago, but again, it is highly toxic, especially to cats.

Both the ASPCA and the HSUS have information on toxicity of different plant materials like these on their websites.

I have used Bio-Spot on my dogs with no ill effect. I've also used Sergeant's Gold, which uses etofenprox, on both the dogs and cats safely. I've used both the spray and spot on from Frontline, but my beef with them is that they don't work. Evidently, fleas develop a resistance to it over time.

My favorite for fleas is Capstar. It is a tablet that will rid the pet of fleas in a few hours. You will have to repeat the treatment as often as new fleas appear, and treat the house with a good flea spray. Unfortunately, it doesn't do ticks. Capstar is VERY safe, even for elderly animals.

It is terrible to see the poor dog like that. He looks like a case of acute renal failure, which eventually he became. Very sad. And very hard on the human who has to live with knowing that in trying to help him, she did the opposite.

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» Resistance Posted by: QuestionAuthority
It's not just limited to putting a chemical on the pet
Posted by: clvngodess on Feb 2, 2009 6:33 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
We have to remember that flea control is not limited to the pet.
It's a complete strategy from garden to inside the house. If you have carpet, you have to address the eggs in the carpet. Even if you have hardwood rugs and only throws. Those eggs can incubate for a looonnnggg time. And then when it gets hot, BAM! Hell breaks loose.
A great clean solution is Diatomaceous earth.

For the yard, which is also important, nematodes. They consume the flea larvae and eggs. We've used both successfully. And both solutions are green and clean. And I've not so secretly sprayed the nematodes into my neighbor's yard (big hairy dogs, I've got cats.)

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Not half the story!
Posted by: PaulK on Feb 2, 2009 7:39 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
At least as bad are the pesticides that chemical companies spray on people's front lawns. One guy I met used to be a customer service rep for a lawn care company I can't name. He said he spent over half his workday pulling animals off of lawns (or sometimes customers would bring the dead things down to his office) and compensating people for the loss of their pets. The dummies would often settle for a year's free lawn care. Yeah, right!

Pesticides kill kids too. They get the same cancer problems the dogs and cats get. They also get autism and all sorts of non-morbid chronic conditions that you, as a parent, will despise and suffer through for the rest of your life.

They kill birds too, but sick birds, being wild, effectively hide in the bushes before dying. Then micro-predators get them, or cats drag them in but you won't know what killed the bird. Look for sick-acting birds in your neighborhood.

P.S. don't work as a pesticide applicator.

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Program????
Posted by: Binnsb4tyrs on Feb 2, 2009 8:44 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
What ever happened to the pill called The Program, in the 80's? That made the fleas sterile. I know my female chocolate lab hates frontline, as she runs and hides under my bed when I open the medicine cabinet. I have to trick her that I am opening the cabinet for other reasons as she is too smart.

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» RE: Program???? Posted by: techcafe
just STOP using synthetic chemicals... period!
Posted by: techcafe on Feb 2, 2009 9:25 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
look people... PLEASE STOP using man-made CHEMICALS, period!!! these TOXIC substances are not just KILLING animals and making HUMANS sick, but they are also poisoning our planet and DESTROYING its delicate ecosystems.

please THINK before you even consider using synthetic chemicals of any kind. they are simply too DANGEROUS. there are always SAFER, natural & holistic alternatives to poisonous chemicals, but the consumer public has been duped by the chemical industry (Dow, Shell, Bayer, Exxon, DuPont, BASF, et al) into believing that we need all these pesiticides, insecticides, solvents, petrochemicals, agrochemicals, yadayadayada... a mind-boggling chemical soup of toxic crap.

the FACT is, we do NOT need to use toxic chemicals, for anything, so just STOP STOP STOP using this poisonous shit... take RESPONSIBILITY for YOUR own actions! and EDUCATE others to act responsibly too.

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Check and brush pets thoroughly every day
Posted by: 2dogarage on Feb 2, 2009 9:36 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
...especially after walking in the woods. At the very least don't administer poison tick control when ticks aren't in season. Also make sure that your pets have places to lie down outside that they prefer to the dirt or grass.

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Switched because cats got sick
Posted by: ender on Feb 2, 2009 9:55 AM   
Current rating: 5    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
My girlfriend and I have eight cats between us. Five of them got sick for a few days when we used over the counter flea/tick poison drops and four lost their fur where the drops are applied. (We only used the most expensive OTC drops, figuring it was the "best".)

Now we only use drops from the veterinarian [the name brand is "Revolution"] and there have been no side affects whatsoever (three applications so far).

The vet acknowledged that some animals are especially sensitive to the OTC ingredients.

Thanks very much for posting this article.

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Somewhat of an expert
Posted by: jbro434 on Feb 2, 2009 10:46 AM   
Current rating: 4    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I am an expert on this topic, for what it is worth so here you go. First, use a botanical product such as EcoSMART Technologies products for your yard and home. They are botanicals that work and will keep your yard safe for you and your pet. Sargents Natural Defense works for short term use and is best applied when walking the animal outside of your property. Re- apply often. Never use any synthetic products such as Frontline. Fipronil, the active ingredient, is killing the bees and is dangerous for your pet. Brush your pets often and check for ticks when you go on a walk in the woods. Synthetics are going to work, but the long term problems are not worth the immediate results. The vacuum cleaner is your best flea control product. Be sure to throw away the bag after each use if fleas are present. Keep your yard cut during the flea season and don't bother applying products over the winter unless you have a problem. In most parts of the country, you can save money by not treating your yard and pet from November until March or April. Make sure that if you use a pest control company for your services that the products they use are from the following companies: EcoSMART, Nissus and Rockwell Labs. You do not need to use anything else unless you have termites, then only use Sentricon from DOW. Do not let them tell you that the products are safe. Ask for labels and MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) if you have a question. ALL companies are required to have these available.

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BeyondPesticides.org
Posted by: plantland on Feb 2, 2009 1:29 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Has good info, like the previous post.

Fluoridated water also can eventually hurt an animal's joints, but getting your town to quit fluoridating is tough.

If a vote to fluoridate comes up, keep it out.

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Flea and tick problems
Posted by: astudent on Feb 2, 2009 1:55 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I sympathize with all pet owners who have watched their beloved 4-legged friends go through pain and suffering from these products that are supposed to help protect them.

I would humbly suggest, however, that if you are a cat owner, the simplest solution to the problem may be to make sure your cat is kept strictly indoors. That's what I've done with the cats I've had, and there has never been a flea to be seen. Obviously, this solution is impractical if you have dogs, as the dogs have to go out. If you have a mixed-pet household (dogs and cats), I would agree with other posters here who suggest treating the lawn rather than the animals. (It's worked in my household, where we currently have a dog and a cat. Neither has ever had fleas or ticks, and we've never seen any sign of any in the yard.) If you feel you must apply a treatment to the animals, I would suggest only applying it to the animals that do go outside, and then as sparingly as possible.

Please note, I am by no means an expert, so these are suggestions only!

Good luck to all fellow pet owners out there!

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Please use a better alternative: DE safe for humans and animals
Posted by: talkingrrl on Feb 2, 2009 11:04 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
What pet companies and vets don't tell pet owners is that there is a safe alternative to get rid of fleas. No dangerous chemicals:human grade diatomaceous earth is a natural pest killer. Safe for humans and pets DE is brushed into your pets fur and fleas are killed. You have to keep applying the powder until you have destroyed the flea life cycle. It takes time but it is worth it.
You can purchase Diatomaceous earth on line or at a garden supply store. It must be human grade.

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Beware of Advantage
Posted by: georgekat on Feb 3, 2009 4:17 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
A couple of years ago I called an "alternative" vet and asked what she recommended for fleas - her answer- "Advantage".

I gave my cat less than the recommended amount. In a matter of hours she had become extremely lethargic, she went from being a cat who raced around the apartment and never was too tired to play, to one who sat all the time, not sleeping, not moving, just kinda gazing into space.

I thot she was gonna die. She finally came out of it, in about 3 days, after I gave her thuja, a homeopathic remedy.

Other people have reported seizures and death from Advantage and Frontline. Plus the fleas build up immunity to these products, so they make them stronger and stronger.

What works for me - add yeast and garlic to her food. {My cat got to like the taste of garlic, now she won't eat the food unless it has garlic.}

When she comes in from outside I use a flea comb and get most of them off that way. It is also is a bonding time.

BTW also beware of flea collars, even the so-called natural ones can be risky.

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» Beware of Garlic Posted by: 2dogarage
dawn dish detergent to the rescue!
Posted by: oaketreee on Feb 3, 2009 6:02 AM   
Current rating: 2    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I administered an over the counter flea medicine to my cat, and AS I WAS PUTTING it between her shoulders she looked back at me and was frothing at the mouth copiously, and was unable to stand or walk. I ran, still holding her, to the phone: no vet was available. I washed her with dawn dish detergent to remove any oily reside the product might have, and within forty five minutes she appeared to be back to normal... shaken, but able to walk. The vet later said dawn was the best soap to remove such things... and then told me that a flea comb and a cup of soapy water... again, dawn... or a bath in barely diluted dawn detergent... left on the cat for about three minutes... would help suffocate fleas. The only important warning: don't use it as a bath often, as it strips natural oils... and rinse thoroughly... very thoroughly.

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Other options
Posted by: TheLimit on Feb 4, 2009 7:32 PM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
Barkdust breeds fleas. Our flea problems (dogs and cats both) were reduced 90% after we quit using barkdust. We do chip our yard cuttings and tree prunings for mulch, but we don't put commercial bark dust down. We originally got this advice from a vet.

Plant flea deterrents wherever you can. Catnip, corsican mint, and other strongly aromatic herbs tend to discourage fleas.

Diatomaceous earth is way underused; it will not only kill fleas but also slugs and other garden pests. It's not only non-toxic but pretty cheap. Enjoy! Get it anywhere you can also buy poison, except at the vets'. Get human grade.

We do use Frontline when we see a flea, but that hasn't happened more than once in a single year for a lot of years. Often we go two years before we are driven to use it again. It makes my vet a little bit crazy, but I've reluctantly concluded that finding a vet who has not been indoctrinated by commercial concerns is near impossible. Her position is basically that if the animals haven't all been Frontlined, they are flea ridden, which is clearly nonsense. As I am allergic to them myself, we know very early in the cycle if there is one around. We find if we treat all the animals as soon as the first flea is discovered we rarely need a second round; there haven't been enough of them to distribute eggs.

If you do feel the need to go with the commercial chemical, get something you have to get from the vet. OTC products are probably riskier, because if they cause a problem, it's easier to fight a dumb pet owner than it is an educated, licensed professional whose reputation is at risk because of a dangerous product. So .. spend the extra buck.

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More Good Information
Posted by: Liberty G on Feb 5, 2009 4:49 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
My organization, Toxics Information Project (TIP), has some useful articles at it's website.
Visit: www.toxicsinfo.org/protectpets.htm
(Elsewhere, we've got great info for hoomans, especially kids).

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One More Article - About Pyrethroids
Posted by: Liberty G on Feb 5, 2009 6:55 AM   
Current rating: Not yet rated    [1 = poor; 5 = excellent]
I was so caught up in talking about the unhealthy chemicals in "fragrance" that I forgot to provide the link to this on pyrethroids:www.toxicsinfo.org/pests/Pyrethroids.htm

And, yes, some natural products and substances can be dangerous too. There is a link to the ASPCA info about plants toxic or non-toxic to pets at the previously mentioned site: www.toxicsinfo.org/protectpets.htm) But, in general, the synthetics are the most risky - most are also derived from petroleum.

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